Ordinary repairs and maintenance don't need the permit. A new blower motor or igniter is a repair; a new furnace, air handler or outdoor condenser is an installation. If your house heats with a boiler and radiators, the boiler itself is regulated by the Pennsylvania Department of Labor and Industry, according to L&I's Mechanical Permit page, so ask the contractor which approvals that job needs.
Item | Furnace or central AC swap, one- or two-family house |
|---|---|
Permit | Mechanical Permit, eCLIPSE type Mechanical/Fuel Gas (MP) |
Plans | None if the job meets EZ standard PB_029_F |
City fees | $69 per appliance; $189 for new ductwork; $3 + $4.50 surcharges; $100 filing fee credited to the permit |
Who does the work | Licensed contractor; sheet metal by a registered sheet metal technician |
Paperwork | HVAC Equipment Design Form with the application; Manual J and test certificates for the inspector |
Review | Without plans: while you wait in person, about 5 business days online |
Also needed | Electrical Permit; Plumbing Permit if plumbing changes; Historical Commission first in historic districts |
What does the EZ standard require from the installer?
The City's EZ standard for ductwork and warm-air appliances (PB_029_F, revised October 2026) is two pages, and it's worth reading before you sign. The parts that matter most for a house:
- A Manual J load calculation, with heating and cooling design loads, goes to the inspector, and equipment is picked with Manual S based on it.
- Cooling capacity can't exceed 1.15 times the design load or the next larger nominal size, whichever is greater (1.25 for heat pumps). Heating capacity is capped at 1.40 times the load or the next nominal size.
- The thermostat has to be programmable.
- Duct and envelope testing paperwork goes to the inspector, and the air handler must be rated for 2% leakage or less.
- Refrigerant piping has to be pressure and leak tested before it's covered up, with a test certificate available to the inspector.
- Ducts in an unconditioned attic need R-8 insulation (R-6 for ducts under 3 inches), and refrigerant lines need at least R-3.
- No duct or air openings through a party wall, a stairway enclosure, or an exterior wall within 3 feet of the lot line.
L&I says a job that doesn't follow the standard can have its EZ permit revoked. The practical use for a homeowner: if a quote just says "same size as the old one," ask whether they're running a Manual J, because the inspector expects one. Our guide on what a heat pump quote should explain about sizing covers what to look for in that calculation.
Who can apply, and who has to do the work?
The owner or an agent such as the contractor can apply. The Mechanical Permit page says a licensed contractor, current on City taxes and with insurance on file with L&I, must do the work, and sheet metal work must be done by a registered sheet metal technician or apprentice employed by that contractor. A furnace or AC swap almost always involves sheet metal and wiring, so plan on hiring licensed trades. For a one- or two-family house, the application includes the HVAC Equipment Design Form, and the Duct and Envelope Testing Certificate and HVAC Equipment Certificate go to the inspector.
In eCLIPSE, L&I's online permit system, the HVAC permit type is Mechanical/Fuel Gas, coded MP, per the eCLIPSE FAQs. Ask the contractor for the MP permit number before work starts.
What other permits come with a furnace or AC swap?
Anything that needs power, including the condenser, air handler or furnace, needs a separate Electrical Permit; see when electrical work needs an L&I permit. A new condensate drain tied into the house plumbing may need a Plumbing Permit, and new or altered gas piping is fuel gas work, listed at $189 for a one- or two-family house. A house in a historic district needs Historical Commission approval before L&I will accept the application.
How much does the permit cost?
The current fee summary (PG_012_INF, effective October 1, 2026) kept the February 2026 residential mechanical fees. For a one- or two-family house:
- $69 per appliance when submitted separately from ductwork.
- $69 per warm-air or direct-vent heating unit connected to a flue or chimney.
- $189 flat for new ductwork.
- A $100 filing fee, credited toward the permit fee, plus a $3 City surcharge and a $4.50 state surcharge per permit.
The Electrical Permit is separate, and contractors usually add their own handling charge. Ask for the City fees as their own line on the quote.
Does a heat pump need the same permit?
Yes. The fee summary lists air conditioning units and heat pumps with the other appliances, at $69 each when filed without ductwork. The EZ standard gives heat pumps a little more room on sizing: cooling capacity can reach 1.25 times the design load, compared with 1.15 for a straight air conditioner.
How long does it take, and how is it closed out?
Online applications without plans are usually processed within five business days; in person at the Permit and License Center they are reviewed while you wait. The contractor requests inspections through eCLIPSE or at (215) 255-4040, and L&I issues a Certificate of Approval after they pass. Keep the permit, the Manual J report and the Certificate of Approval with the equipment paperwork. To check an application, see how to track a Philadelphia permit or inspection.
Related permit guides
Water heater or drain work: plumbing permits. Condenser placement and setbacks: when zoning applies. Past work on the house: permit history lookup. Choosing the installer: contractor hiring checklist. More: home construction and permits.